Egg Tuesday – Eggs Benedict the easy way.

2010 February 9

As the spokesperson for the incredible edible egg and America’s egg farmers I blog about cooking eggs every Tuesday.

I still remember vividly being a kid and going to Sunday brunch with the family. It was always a big deal to get dressed up. The idea of the buffet was so grand and something to really look forward to. All I can eat and an entire dessert table!! One of my favorites was, and still is eggs Benedict. It is such a perfect balance of flavors and textures. The first thing that would catch my eye would be the two perfectly poached eggs perched proudly on top of the crispy English muffins. The gown of Hollandaise was protecting the yolks until I was ready. A gently push with my fork and the luscious egg yolk would run out and combine with the Hollandaise to create the perfect sauce. The slightly crisp asparagus added the perfect bit of resistance to the otherwise silky texture. The slices of ham made it a balanced meal adding a touch of salt and that wonderful pork flavor.

We don’t do many buffets now but we do like to enjoy a great brunch at home on the weekends as a family. If you keep a couple hard-cooked eggs in the refrigerator this recipe is even quicker. My quick and much healthier version of a Hollandaise is as follows.

Puree two hard-cooked egg yolks in a blender with 1 Tb of lemon juice, 1 Tb water, a pinch of salt and a couple drops of mustard. Puree to smooth. There is no butter like a traditional Hollandaise so it is a much easier, quicker process yet the result has the same luxurious mouth feel.

Toast your English muffins. Top with your choice of ham, asparagus or whatever you like, then the poached eggs(you can absolutely use fried eggs as well). Waterfall your “hollandaise” over the top and enjoy! If you want instructions on how to poach eggs check out my blog on poaching eggs www.jeffreysaad.com . I just saw a Modern Marvels episode on the History Channels. They did an entire piece on the incredible egg. Not only was it very interesting but they recommended 4-7 eggs per week per person as part of a balanced, healthy diet. There is nothing better than being told what I love to eat is also good for me. Enjoy your eggs.

New News – America’s egg farmers are searching for the next Incredible Person! You can share videos of you and/or your child’s extraordinary mind/body talents and skills on www.incredibleegg.org. The winner will have a chance to appear in an incredible edible egg ad along with other great prizes, including a year’s supply of eggs and a donation of 10,000 eggs to the winner’s local food bank of choice! On top of that, America’s egg farmers will match every video uploaded by donating one egg to Feeding America!

Eat Well, Enjoy life, Be happy

The obvious is not always so obvious; seasoned bread crumbs!

2010 February 5

I hope this finds you with the lingering taste of a great meal in your mouth!
I always use my spice grinder ($20 coffee grinder) to grind whole spices. I love the way this releases their powerful, flavorful, fresh oils into whatever I am cooking. Grinding whole spices is a quick, easy way to boost the flavor of your food.

After grinding spices I have always used a scrap of baguette or slice of bread to “mop” out the spice grinder. I drop in the bread, pulse while shaking, and watch the bread turn into crumbs as it cleans the inside of the grinder perfectly. What I never paid attention to is the amazingly fragrant, perfectly seasoned breadcrumbs that were the bi-product of my cleaning. I used to just toss them!

I made a cauliflower soup, cleaned the grinder out to remove the cardamom flavor/smell and then sautéed those cardamom scented bread crumbs in olive oil as a topping for the soup. Awesome!

How about cleaning out the grinder with tortilla chips and then using those cumin/oregano/chile scented chips to garnish your enchiladas. Hello!!

There is no end to the discoveries that lead to more pleasurable eating. Life is good.

Eat well, Enjoy life, Be happy

A taco is never just a taco, orchids in Thailand

2010 February 3

The kids and I are missing mom but she called last night so everyone was happy. She spent the day in a field of an endless variety of orchids after floating through the water on a bamboo “gondola” type vessel. The kids and I spent the day on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles and went to CVS for some toiletries. You pick? Time to eat!

I am always ready to go towards the taco when I am hungry. To me a taco means a tortilla filled with whatever mouth-watering combination you are in the mood for. Yesterday it was salmon. Grilled salmon topped with red wine vinegar pickled red onions, tiny cubes of fingerling potatoes roasted with brown mustard seeds and a dill yogurt. What kind of tortilla, flour or corn, is always about my mood and the ingredients I am using. A flour tortilla is soft and warm and really cuddles whatever is inside. There is a distinctive chew to it. A corn tortilla screams Mexico; rustic, full of rich corn flavor. Although it is robust in flavor it is delicate in texture and will come apart more easily. I like a corn tortilla when I want to fill it with a small amount of something rich like some tiny cubed pork, carnitas, or skirt steak.

For the salmon tacos:

You want to pickle the red onions for at least two hours. ½ a red onion sliced thin. ½ C. red wine vinegar, a pinch of salt and a few sprigs of fresh dill. Toss well and continue to stir at room temperate every 20 minutes. Watch the onions become bright purple. They soften and their strong sharp flavor becomes balanced and sweet.

Season the salmon and grill to MR. Set aside.
Mix your favorite plain yogurt with a little milk to thin it out to a thick sauce consistency. Stir in a pinch of salt and some fresh plucked dill. Pull off the leaves in small pieces and toss them in. No need to chop.

Cube some potatoes very small (I used fingerling) and boil until tender. Rinse under cold water to stop the cooking and let drain to remove excess water. In a small pan add a touch of olive oil. Once hot add the potato and a thin layer of brown mustard seeds. The brown seeds are spicier and have a deep nutty flavor as they pop in the hot oil. A touch of salt is always a flavor enhancer.

Grill your tortilla and lay it on a plate. Pick up the salmon and let it fall apart onto the tortilla in random chunks. Top with some potato, then the red onions and finish with a drizzle of the dill yogurt. Take a bite and enjoy the taco at a whole new level. The full flavor of the salmon is tamed by the sweet acidity of the red onions. The potatoes collapse in your mouth providing the perfect textural balance to the crisp onions. The yogurt sauce is the foil to the slightly spicy mustard seeds and the dill comes through with its weedy, enticing perfume. Buen provecho (bon appetite) as they say in Mexico. But that is the only thing Mexican about this taco. Enjoy.
Eat well, Enjoy life, Be happy

Egg Tuesday – Simple can so often be better. Three ingredient recipes in fewer than 4 minutes.

2010 February 2

As the spokesperson for the incredible edible egg and America’s egg farmers I blog about cooking eggs every Tuesday.

I am always happy to play in the kitchen for hours at a time but sometimes I only have a few minutes to spare. The good news is even when you only have a few minutes you do not have to sacrifice health, flavor or quality! Over the last couple days I was in that situation but still needed my egg fix. Here are the two dishes I made in less than 4 minutes.

Black pepper magic – I fried an egg in olive oil over medium heat and loaded it with black pepper. It is easy to forget that black pepper is not just a sister seasoning to salt but a magical, slightly spicy, full flavored spice on its own. I used about five times more pepper than I would have if I was just seasoning my egg. If you have a pepper grinder that is the way to go. Grind on a course setting and enjoy the texture, vibrancy, and mild dried fruit and spice flavor. The olive oil was essentially poaching the egg from below. When the white was starting to set I covered the pan and allowed the steam to cook the top. This was one of the tastiest eggs ever. The black pepper sunk into the rich, satisfying yolk as I cut into it. The olive oil gave the white a beautiful yellow glow and clean flavor. A piece of toast and I was on my way with the lingering mild heat of black pepper and the perfectly satiated, sustainable feeling I love.

Do you have another 4 minutes?

Fried egg in olive oil with smoked salmon and fresh dill.

You can also use dry dill and left over cooked salmon. The combination of salmon and egg may be the best start to the day your body could ask for. The dill lends its weedy, bright perfume to the dish making you feel like you are having an elegant weekend brunch. Fry the egg in olive oil or butter. Flip the egg over, add the pieces of salmon and dill and cook until set as you like it. Slide onto a plate and enjoy!

New News – America’s egg farmers are searching for the next Incredible Person! You can share videos of you and/or your child’s extraordinary mind/body talents and skills on www.incredibleegg.org. The winner will have a chance to appear in an incredible edible egg ad along with other great prizes, including a year’s supply of eggs and a donation of 10,000 eggs to the winner’s local food bank of choice! On top of that, America’s egg farmers will match every video uploaded by donating one egg to Feeding America!

Eat Well, Enjoy life, Be happy

My wife has left me.

2010 January 29

My wife Nadia is off to Thailand for ten days with a friend. She has been all about me for the last year with the exciting change in our lives due to the food network. Now it is her turn to take care of herself. I think the key to a great relationship is to make sure both partners always have a chance to have their own space and seek out what matters to them. If you try to find ways to bring your partner joy vs analysing what they are not doing for you it comes back ten-fold. I adore my love. She left yesterday and of course we already miss her. With that said this is a great opportunity for the kids and I to have a fun ten days together.

It did not start off with a culinary bang as we ate at Panda Express at 8:30pm last night after three hours of soccer and basketball practices. Laughing with the kids and seeing how happy they were to be enjoying their beef broccoli made my orange chicken doable. I must say there is something desirable about the sweet chewy coating and the spicy orange tang. My calamari tacos at my first restaurant Sweet Heat were made with a Chinese coating of cornstarch and egg whites. You whisk the egg white and dip the calamari in. Then you dredge it in cornstarch and lay the calamari flat (uncovered) in the refrigerator to air dry. By leaving it uncovered the cornstarch dries out and that is what creates the texture while keeping the calamari encapsulated and moist inside.  When you fry it (canola oil) you get a thin, crisp, slightly chewy coating that grabs any sauce you use and won’t let go. I used to use a habanero/pineapple salsa.  Tasty memories! I think I need to bring that back to life with the new fryer I just got.

Today I am going to make a batch of Bolognese (the kids favorite). I have also been in a meatball craze lately. I am determined to perfect the meatball. The key is tender and light. Not mini meatloafs but balls of tender pieces of meat barely held together with panko bread crumbs, sweated leeks, garlic and the spice of choice. Browned for depth of flavor but then bathed below a simmer in sauce until they can be cut with a fork held with just one finger and thumb. So far the best I have ever had is at Delfina Pizzeria on California St. in San Francisco. This weekend is lamb meatballs with thyme and sumac tomato sauce.. Those are two of the three herbs in a classic Zahtar (Middle Eastern spice of thyme, sumac and sesame seeds). I love the citrus pucker of sumac with its dried berry flavor. It is a great compliment to the flowery grassy perfume of thyme.

I am going to do some prep over the weekend as well for an abc7 shoot on Monday  (Check out my last one on cooking light via the use of spices) and to be ready for a few days worth of school lunches. My gourmet kids had a lunch request for today of panini sandwiches. I made roasted asparagus, mushroom and manchego cheese for Bella and roasted mushroom, salami and cheddar for Seby. The extra work is well worth the joy of seeing them appreciate good food! That is what life is all about! A little love and money doesn’t hurt either. Time to get busy. Have a great day and eat something memorable!

Eat well, Enjoy life, Be happy

Egg Tuesday – Quick start for an energy filled day and a chance to have the world know about your child’s extraordinary mind/body talents!

2010 January 26

As the spokesperson for the incredible edible egg and America’s egg farmers I blog about cooking eggs every Tuesday.
As a dad there is nothing more rewarding than knowing you are taking great care of your kids. Part of that duty for me is sending my kids Sebastian and Isabella off to school energized and ready for the day. The high-quality protein in eggs provides the mind and body energy they need for long school day. The recipe below has been a success for me because it is quick and a success for the kids because they love it! It is incredible how you can take the same three simple ingredients and by changing the way you deliver them they become something new and exciting.

5 minute Breakfast Crumble

Serves: 2

Two eggs
2 pieces of bread
1 small, pre-cooked chicken/apple sausage

Place two eggs in a small pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Turn to just below a simmer. Add the pre-cooked sausage to the water with the eggs and cook both for five minutes.

While the eggs are cooking toast two pieces of bread. Cut into cubes(croutons).
Remove sausage and chop into pieces.
Rinse eggs under cold water. Peel and place in a bowl.
Break up eggs with a fork. Stir in chopped sausage and croutons.
Spoon into two bowls (or ramekins) and serve!

You could also prepare the egg sausage mixture the night before and microwave it just until warm. The egg yolk coats the croutons making them rich and tasty. The chicken apple sausage provides just the right amount of meat flavor and the apple is the perfect touch of sweetness.

New News – America’s egg farmers are searching for the next Incredible Person! You can share videos of you and/or your child’s extraordinary mind/body talents and skills on www.incredibleegg.org. The winner will have a chance to appear in an incredible edible egg ad along with other great prizes, including a year’s supply of eggs and a donation of 10,000 eggs to the winner’s local food bank of choice! On top of that, America’s egg farmers will match every video uploaded by donating one egg to Feeding America!

Restaurant consulting, hot and sour soup!

2010 January 24

I hope this finds you with the lingering aftertaste of a great meal!
I am currently doing a consulting job for a restaurant in San Francisco. I really enjoy it. I get to do my own version of Gordon Ramsey’s “Kitchen Nightmares”. I am very comfortable assessing a restaurant from the front door to the back door and love helping people do well! This restaurant has a great team of dedicated people making it happen.
One of my assignments this time was to come up with some new soups. I did five of them but my favorite is the Chinese “hot and sour soup”. I have always loved this soup but have never made it. When they told me they would like a version of it on their menu I thought it would be a great challenge. I love to bring the taste of a country or a familiar dish but without having to replicate the authentic version. In this case it would not be wise for them to add bamboo shoots, dried lilies and fungus mushrooms to their inventory list. As it turns out they won’t have to but they will still experience the soup as if they had. One sip of this soup and your mouth puckers with the familiar bright acidity that rice wine vinegar delivers. The vinegar then does a hand-off to the hot chile sauce that takes the pucker away and lights up your mouth just enough to get you excited about the next bite. There is a depth of flavor from the umami quality of the soy sauce without having an obvious soy sauce flavor. The ginger, the garlic and the green onions come together to create a nice back drop of flavor to the hot and sour quality. The texture is that unmistakable pleasurable viscosity? A great hot/sour soup has that thickness from the cornstarch without being heavy and the beautiful strands of tender egg add another layer of texture. Give it a try! Have a tasty day and take care.
 Eat well, Enjoy life, Be happy
Hot and sour soup
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 1/2 cups white mushrooms sliced thin
4 each green onions sliced
1/2 teaspoon ginger, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
2  teaspoons Sriracha chile sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce, low-salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 each egg
1 quart chicken stock
4 ounces tofu med firm
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
Instructions
Mix the cornstarch and cool water together in a small bowl and set aside for later.

In a pot over medium heat add the sesame oil.
Once hot add the sliced mushrooms. Cook for three minutes until soft. They will not have much color on them.

Add the green onions, ginger, and garlic. Cook for two minutes.

Add the rice wine vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, salt and Sriracha. Cook for two minutes.

Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. While whisking the soup slowly pour in the cornstarch slurry. Whisk until combined and soup starts to thicken. Turn heat off.

Beat the egg for a moment. WHILE stirring the soup in a continuous circular motion slowly pour the egg into the pot. Continue to stir for thirty seconds. You will see the egg cook into long, thin strands and the soup will take on a creamy look although it will still be a broth consistency.

Chop the tofu into 1/2″ cubes and add to soup.

Garnish with 1 tsp fresh chopped cilantro.

Recipe Notes
Soup will be viscous from the egg and cornstarch but not thick.
Do not color the mushrooms, ginger, garlic and onion.
Add the egg and tofu at the end when the heat is off.

The soup should have a pronounced sour/hot back and forth flavor.

Serves: 4. Preparation Time is 00 minutes.  Inactive Preparation Time is 00 minutes.  Cooking Time is 00 minutes.

Egg Tuesday – The simplicity and enjoyment of the crepe!

2010 January 19

As the spokesperson for the incredible edible egg and America’s egg farmers I blog about cooking eggs every Tuesday.

Crepes sound fancy but the reality is that they are just really thin pancakes. What I love about them is they do not taste simple. Crepes can be a quick breakfast with jam or Nutella or a special weekend brunch with my egg pillows which you will see in the video below. The uses for crepes are endless and they always please everyone.

Crepes

Crepes

This movie requires Adobe Flash for playback.

Crepe egg pillow

Crepe egg pillow

This movie requires Adobe Flash for playback.

Crepe fried egg pillows

2     each eggs

1     each egg yolk

1     cup milk, 2%

1/2   cup water

pinch kosher salt

1.5   ounces butter

1     cup all-purpose flour

Instructions

The crepe batter:

In a medium bowl combine two eggs, one yolk, water, milk, and salt. Whisk just to combine. Whisk in the flour and set aside.

In a non stick 9″ skillet over medium heat melt the butter. Once the butter is melted and golden brown turn off the heat and let it cool for a few moments. Gently whisk the butter into the egg/flour mixture to combine. Your batter is ready.

In the same non-stick skillet over medium heat add ¼ C. batter. Using a rotating motion with your wrist swirl the batter so that it spreads out evenly in the pan. After it starts to set (about 30 seconds) you can left up the sides and flip it over. Cook 30 seconds more and slide onto a plate. Spread with jam, Nutella or filling of your choice. Roll up or fold into a triangle.

Egg Pillow:

Use the batter above. Crack an egg into the middle of a non-stick pan. Pour in 1/4 C of the crepe batter around the egg allowing the batter to come right up to the egg. When the white goes from clear to white sprinkle the cheese over the egg.

Use a spatula to fold the crepe over the yolk from each of four sides to form a pillow over the yolk. Flip the pillow over. Cook 45 seconds longer. Remove the pillow and set on a plate. Garnish with parsley and smoked paprika.

The fillings are unlimited! Ham, roasted peppers, cheese of your choice, herbs of your choice.

Recipe Notes

You can also save leftover crepe batter to use for dessert with chocolate or Nutella or to make savory stuffed crepes of your choice. Use a rotating motion with the pan in your hand to swirl the batter around the pan so that it touches the egg white but also goes to the edge of the pan so the crepe is thin. If you don’t do this the batter will pool closer to the egg and you will have a very thick crepe when you form the pillow.

Flour can vary so don’t hesitate to add a little more milk or water to the crepe batter when you first make it. You want it to be saucy. Much thinner than a pancake batter.

Brown butter is a magical thing! It gives the crepes a rich, nutty flavor. When the butter froth and then settles it is time to turn off the heat. Keep an eye on it as it can go from nutty to burnt if you are not careful.

Feed the hungry by making a pledge (no cost) to eat good and do good everyday.  The America’s egg farmers are donating up to one million eggs to feed the hungry.

Eat well, Enjoy life, Be happy

Jeffrey Saad on abc with Lori Corbin “The Food Coach”

2010 January 18

 

Thank you for watching me on abc January 18th with Lori Corbin. Below are the recipes that were featured. She had asked me to make healthy food really tasty with the use of spices. We had a blast. Here are my creations. I hope you enjoy them. These are great examples of how I believe spices can allow you to cook locally and eat globally. It is easy to reach for fat (which I love to do) for flavor but it is also great to reach for the spices to make healthy food just as tasty. Check out your spice rack. Open up each jar and smell it. Does it smell like something you would want to eat? Does it smell like a fine culinary perfume? If so keep it and try it out. If not, toss it. Spices usually stay fresh for about six months if stored in a cool, dark place. If you have whole seeds they will last longer. Let me know if you have questions. Eat well, enjoy life, be happy!

Cumin crusted turkey meatballs
2 each leeks
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 pound ground turkey
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/2 cup panko
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup parsley, chopped small
4 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon olive oil
2 cups tomato sauce
Instructions
Cut dark green ends off of leeks. Slice in half the long way and pull out the core and discard. Wash the leeks in a bowl of water opening the layers to get the water inside. Dry. Slice thin.

In a medium size skillet over low heat add a teaspoon of olive oil. Add the leeks and cook for ten minutes stirring occasionally. The leeks should be soft and lightly golden. Place in a medium size bowl.

To the same bowl add the ground turkey (very cold), the paprika, panko, garlic and salt. Stir gently with a fork just to combine. Do not overwork the mixture or the meatballs will be tough. Refrigerate for ten minutes.

Gently form the meat into meatballs (8 total). You can make them larger or smaller if you like. Pour the ground cumin on a plate and roll the meatballs in the cumin to coat them.

In a large pot over medium heat add the olive oil. Once hot add the meatballs. Carefull turn the meatballs with tongs until evenly golden on all sides. If browning too quickly turn the heat down. Once brown on all sides add the tomato sauce. Bring to a boil and immediately turn down to the lowest heat and cover the pan. You want the meatballs to gently finish cooking so that they are very tender. After ten minutes turn the heat off.
Place meatballs on a plate and garnish with the sauce and fresh chopped flat leaf parsley. Serve with toasted baguette slices.

Recipe Notes
 Serves: 3.  Preparation Time is 30 minutes.  Inactive Preparation Time is 10 minutes.  Cooking Time is 15 minutes.
Scrambled eggs with turmeric onions
3 each eggs
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon water
1/2 teaspoon olive oil
1/4 each yellow onion, sliced thin
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 each green onion, chopped
1/4 teaspoon ginger, chopped
Instructions
 

Recipe Notes
In a small bowl mix the water, eggs, and salt. Whisk to combine.
In a medium non-stick skillet add the olive oil. Once hot add the onions and the turmeric. Mix. Cook the onions until soft and slightly golden. Turn heat to low and add egg mixture. Drag a rubber spatula across the bottom of the pan to create folds of light, fluffy egg. Do not stir.

When there is a touch of shine still left plate the eggs. Turn the heat to medium and add the green onion and ginger to the same pan. Cook for one minute. Pour over eggs. Enjoy.

Serves: 2.  Preparation Time is 03 minutes.  Inactive Preparation Time is 00 minutes.  Cooking Time is 05 minutes.
Stir fry chicken meatballs
1 1/2 cups Chinese style short grain white rice (Calrose)
1 ounce rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon five-spice powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
2 head bok-choy
5 each green onion, chopped
1 each carrot, shredded
6 ounces chicken breasts, boneless & skinless
1/4 cup soy sauce, low-salt
1 teaspoon peanut oil
1 teaspoon chile flakes
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon fennel seed
1/4 cup water
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
Instructions
The Rice
In a medium pot mix together the rice, vinegar, sugar, five spice, and salt.
Stir. Bring to a boil. Turn down to low and cover pot. Cook until water is absorbed and rice is tender about 20 minutes. Set aside.

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Cut the bok choy into small slices and drop into the boiling water. Boil for two minutes. While that is boiling prepare a medium size bowl of ice water. Strain the bok choy and dunk the strainer of bok choy into the cold water. Stir until bok choy is cold. Drain well and pat dry. Place in a medium size bowl. Turn the water down to below a simmer and add the chicken breast. Cover and turn off the heat. Let sit until the inside of the chicken breast is cooked (155 degrees). Remove from water and allow to cool. (residual heat while cooling will continue to cook the chicken breast).  Shred the chicken with a fork or cut into small cubes.

The Meatballs
In the same bowl add the carrots, cooked bok choy, green onions, cooked chicken, and the cooked rice. Mix to combine evenly. Rice should be very sticky. Form into “meatballs” and place on a serving platter.

The Sauce
In a medium size skillet over medium heat add the peanut oil. Once hot add the whole fennel seeds, garlic and chile flakes. When the garlic starts to color add the soy sauce, water and hoisin. Bring to a boil and turn heat off. Taste. Adjust thickness and sweet/salt balance by adding a touch of water or a touch of hoisin until it meets your taste. Spoon sauce over meatballs. Garnish with chopped cilantro.

Recipe Notes
You can use a small ice cream scooper to form the balls as the rice will still be hot. The balls are great served hot or room temperature. Then can be reheated in a steamer as well. You can make them ahead of time and refrigerate them.

Hoisin can very in thickness and sweetness. The type of soy sauce you have can also vary in salt level. Adjust the sauce accordingly to you taste. You can double the chile flakes if you like it more spicy.

Serves: 4.  Preparation Time is 20 minutes.  Inactive Preparation Time is 00 minutes.  Cooking Time is 30 minutes.

From Sweet Heat to heaven, an evening of complete decadence!

2010 January 16

I believe that food is about the daily joy of eating and living. Simple, tasty, and clean. It shouldn’t have to be too fancy or too expensive. When I opened my first restaurant in San Francisco called Sweet Heat my goal was to apply gourmet cooking principals to food that tasted of the world but in an easy to enjoy format. It was inexpensive and straight forward which allowed me to see my customers several times a week. No matter what was going on in their lives when I had them they were in heaven for 40 minutes. They spent less than $15 and had a blast. That is what the restaurant business is all about for me.
With that said there are times when I want to be transformed to another place via food. When the food comes together properly that place is what heaven must be like! I feel an outer body experience as I taste food that consumes all of my attention. Food that fills my mouth with such perfectly balanced flavor and texture that I find it hard to open my eyes as I eat. Too many times I decide to spend that chunk of money for that experience and it falls short. My visit to Marea in Manhattan this week was one of those times when I got my moneys worth and then some! Five course tasting menu with wines to match. Here we go!
First Course – Sea Urchin, lardo and sea salt crostini. It was like sea custard with melted lardo that almost vanished under the heat. Just when I thought it could not get any better the bits of sea salt melted on my tongue and re-ignited the entire flavor profile all over again. A glass of yeasty sparkling Italian chardonnay was the perfect balance. The yeastiness of the bubbly played nicely with the rich flavor of the sea. The acid in the bubbly provided the perfect cleansing balance to the richness of the lardo. The “finish” would not end! I felt guilty finally extinguishing the never-ending finish with a bite of oil rich house made focaccia.
Second course – Three raw bites – bay scallops with mandarin orange and wild baby arugula. Skate with lemon thyme, and a beautiful gem of big-eye tuna with an herbed oyster cream and crispy slice of sunchoke. I was able to fully taste the flavor of each ingredient yet they all came together to be something more than their individual parts. A glass of Verdicchio was the perfect balance. The wine accelerated the mandarin orange flavor brilliantly.
Third course – Lobster, burrata cheese, basil seed, eggplant and tomato salad. Whoever said seafood and cheese don’t go together has never had this dish!! One of my favorites of the night. Tender, perfectly cooked morsels of lobster tucked into a fresh mozzarella “comforter” were the pinnacle of decadence. The basil seeds with the tiny chunks of fresh, sweet tomatoes cut the richness and brought that perfume that make you say “ah, yes, I recognize that caprese flavor profile”. The tiny cubes of slightly firm eggplant provided a firmness that kept me from slipping away forever in the otherwise creamy cloud of flavor. This dish was truly the best of seafood and dairy together. It was like a cold “melt” if that makes any sense. The Vermentino was not a good wine match. The wine was way to full bodied and full flavored. It overwhelmed all the delicate nuances of the dish.
Fourth course – Veal tongue, seafood sausage, cabbage and hazelnuts. The chef is brilliant at combining seafood with animal fat. This was a great example. The richness and full meaty flavor of the tongue married brilliantly with the seafood sausage. The seafood sausage ate like a pork sausage but with the delicate flavor of seafood. The meat and the seafood swapped places as the seafood provided the firmness and the veal tongue was the soft texture. The cabbage provided the always necessary acid balance and the toasted hazelnuts brought you back full circle with their rich, nutty crunch. A Loire Sauvignon Blanc from Quincy was a tasty match. The herby quality of the wine played nicely with the vegetal character of the cabbage and the acids cancelled each other out and brought the flavors of the food to the forefront.
Fifth course – Octopus Bolognese with bone marrow. Bursts of rich pleasure from the marrow. The tomato sauce was spicy and the octopus had great texture but unfortunately you could not taste the flavor of the octopus. The tomato and bone marrow completely buried it. The Nero d’ Avola red wine was a great match but again was more of a red wine with meat profile that overwhelmed the octopus even further.
A glass of raisinated sweet Italian dessert wine was the perfect finish. It was like an after dinner drink and dessert all in one. I enjoyed this while practicing my Spanish with an awesome couple on vacation from Mexico. The wife promises to send me a famous family recipe from her grandmother. I will share that one with you when I get it!
Although this is not a meal I can afford very often I was so grateful to have it be one that felt worth every penny. There are chefs that truly know how to coax the best out of each ingredient and create flavor combinations that you never thought of. Thank you Marea.
Eat well, Enjoy life, Be happy